No sooner had I returned from my last hike of the Berryman Trail in December 20024, than I was planning another. I had a score to settle. On the first day of that trip, I experienced a bout of AFIB, and realizing I hadn’t packed enough medication, I had to take it slow and easy for the remainder of the four-day hike.

Then, in February, I was all packed and ready to leave for the Berryman Trail rematch when my heart started playing up again! The weather wasn’t suitable for a delayed trip, and I was wary of the trail length and distance from home following my AFIB, so after a couple of days’ rest, I spent three days hiking the Big Piney Trail instead. That hike didn’t go smoothly either. I got gout (of all things) in my left foot and what I thought was a nasty blister on the heel of my right foot. It took a couple of weeks for the gout to go away and for my heel to recover enough for another long hike.

So here I am at the end of March, getting ready to go back and show the Berryman Trail ‘what for,’ with a four-day counterclockwise hike, and hopefully put these health demons to rest.

The Berryman Trail

The trail runs through short-leaf pine and oak forests and generally follows the contour lines into and around the hollows. You’ll enjoy this trail if you like the Ozark’s crinkly bits with deep hollows. The Berryman Trail is not in a designated wilderness and is open for hikers, equestrians, and cyclists. Motor vehicles are not allowed on the trail but can be encountered at the trail’s many forest road crossings.

The trail is divided into two segments: east and west. In December, water was available on the West Segment at the spring at the abandoned Beecher Campground, Harmon Spring and Trailhead, Little Brazil Creek, and Brazil Creek. The East Segment has a reputation for being dry — I’ve seen caches of water at the point where the trail crosses Floyd Tower Road. However, I have found a low-output spring on the trail a mile or two south of Floyd Tower Road.

The Weather

The above image is courtesy of my subscription to windy.com (Check out the free version, it is the best weather site I’ve found. If you are a weather nerd, subscribe! I’m not an affiliate; I just want to see them remain in business).

It had been very windy, which was another reason for delaying this trip. I didn’t fancy being out among the trees when it was gusting at fifty-plus miles per hour. I expected to find a few trees down along the trail. Day One — Thursday and Thursday night were going to be cool. The wind was still going to be quite gusty every day except Friday. Saturday night and Sunday morning were forecast to have rain, wind, and thunderstorms. I’m no stranger to finishing my trips with a hike back to the trailhead in the rain.

Gear

I decided to take a gamble that the overnight forecast wouldn’t be too far off, and I packed my summer 40°F quilts

Hiking Berryman counterclockwise, I had to start my hike carrying enough water for the night and to get me to Brazil Creek on the second day. To make more room for the water, I decided to take a gamble that the overnight forecast wouldn’t be too far off, and I packed my summer 40°F quilts. Just in case, I also packed my waffle-weave base layer, some track pants, and a Merino wool shirt. For the warmer days, I had my running shorts and a lightweight T-shirt. I also took my latest acquisition, an 850-fill down, hoodless jacket, which weighs in at just eleven ounces and compresses well. Yes, I know I said I was getting an artificial fiber filled jacket, and I did. It was too heavy and not very compressible, but I like it, so it is doing duty as my winter ‘about town jacket.’ I packed my rain jacket and rain skirt, mainly for the last day, the jacket can also keep the gusty wind off of me at other times.

For my shelter, I took my lighter fair-weather tarp (without doors); I could use my rain skirt to keep an end of my hammock dry if it started blowing in on Saturday night.

With four days’ worth of food and fuel and over 3.5 liters of water, my pack was almost maxed out at 34 pounds.

Food is going to be the next item under the microscope for weight savings. I love my trail mix, Pop-Tarts, and hot chocolate, but golly those items are heavy. There must be lighter and better options for the trail mix and hot chocolate at least — I’m not sure I am ready to forego the Pop-Tarts!

I also, somewhat stupidly, packed my wood stove (yet again). With the gusty wind conditions in the forecast, that could have been left behind.

The Plan

It’s very simple. I’m hiking counterclockwise from the Berryman Campground, camping at exactly the same places I did in my December trip.

• Day One. Hike the six miles to the spring I found by the trail on the East section of the trail.
• Day Two. Hike seven miles to where I camped on December 29, filling up with water at Brazil Creek as I go by.
• Day Three. Hike eight miles to Beecher Spring and find somewhere sheltered from the wind and rain to camp for the night.
• Day Four. Hike the eight miles back to the trailhead in the rain.

There are considerable advantages to revisiting campsites I’ve already used. I don’t have to waste time searching for suitable trees to hang my hammock or food bag, and I know what to expect. There are also disadvantages, primarily, missing even better sites that may be in the vicinity.

Needless to say, once I got out in the woods, I came up with an alternative plan, and to find that out…

you’ll have to study the maps below or read the full write-up of my trip on my personal blog.

Day One Map and Stats

Day Two Map and Stats

Day Three Map and Stats

Day Four Map, Stats, and end of hike thoughts

Once home I had to use my previous track (from December 2024) to get a more accurate mileage figure for the last day — 6.2 miles.

What Worked

I think I’ve got everything dialed-in at the moment — not that there isn’t still room for improvement — so, here are some special mentions:

• First Aid Kit. That’s two out of two trips I’ve needed to use it after carrying and not needing one for over 15 years! I’m not sure if I’m being careless or if it’s just a matter of luck. For now, I’m sticking with the latter.
• Down Jacket. It was great. It kept me warm and worked well as an additional blanket, too.
• Bedrock Sandals. They deserve a mention after my unfounded concerns that they were causing blisters. They were fine.
• Clothing Layering. I’m very glad I packed my base layer for the colder night and mornings. I’d have been miserable without it.
• Windy.com. My weather App. It is exceptional.
• Sheltering on the lee side of a ridge. I’ve done this several times when storms or high winds have been forecast. It’s easy to do and works.
• My Revised Hiking Plan. Camping closer to the trailhead on the final night worked well, especially considering my late start. I’m glad I made the decision to do it.

What didn’t work, and what I didn’t use

• Wood Stove. Once again, I brought along my wood stove and didn’t use it.
• Carrying Extra Water. I’m not sure what the solution is to this one. A lot of the creeks and springs are seasonal, and there’s no way to get up-to-the-minute data on these tiny, remote water sources.
• Spares Bag. I’m going to review my spares bag. I’m sure I don’t need all the bits of string, straps, and two additional ways of starting a fire I’m currently carrying around.
• 40°F Under Quilt. It’s just not toasty when the temps drop to 25°F, nor should it be. I should have packed my 10°F under quilt.
• Track Pants. I thought they might make a viable option vs fleece pants. No, that didn’t work for me.

Lessons

• Stop and address minor issues before they escalate into a bigger problem is a more effective strategy. I’m stubborn and keep on going when I should take the time to deal with things before they get out of hand.
• Take the 10°F under quilt when the temps may drop below freezing.
• I need to review my overall strategy. I’ve realized that my trips are becoming more mileage and stats-driven. I’m (supposedly) doing this mainly for funsies, not to gain bragging rights for setting records for the most miles, feet of elevation, speed, or endurance. In mitigation, my tendency toward late starts drives this to an extent, as does my food-carrying capacity of around four days.
• I’m going to review what I pack and examine why. I want to simplify what I carry and reduce weight. Which leads me to:
• Research lighter, higher-calorie, and protein-dense foods — without leaving the Pop-Tarts behind!

All in all, it was a great hike. The Berryman Trail is a bit more popular than I’m comfortable with, but the great trail surfaces and clear, well-blazed trail more than make up for that minor inconvenience.

Hopefully, I’ve put the health problems behind me. It’s time to head back to Irish Wilderness, there are some places off trail I want to explore before the bugs and poison Ivy get too prolific.

You can read a complete write-up of my trip on my personal blog.